Why is my tap dripping — and when to actually call a plumber

A dripping tap is one of those things that gets ignored for weeks. It's a slow, quiet noise in the background, and life carries on. Then you look at your water bill, or the enamel round the plughole starts staining brown, and suddenly it matters.

We get called out to dripping taps in Hull all the time — everything from a kitchen mono that's been going three months to a bath tap that's rotted through the seat. In most cases it's a cheap, quick fix. Sometimes it isn't. Here's how to tell which one you've got.

First — how much water is it actually wasting?

A tap dripping once a second wastes roughly 15 litres a day. That's over 5,000 litres a year — about 60 baths' worth — running straight down the drain. If it's a hot tap, you're also paying to heat that water. That's the real reason to sort it, even before the noise drives you mad.

The two main causes: washer vs cartridge

Almost every dripping tap comes down to one of two things: a worn washer, or a knackered ceramic cartridge. Which one depends on the type of tap you have.

Traditional taps (two separate handles, hot and cold)

These use a rubber washer that presses onto a brass seat inside the tap. Over years, the rubber compresses, hardens and cracks. Water gets past — drip, drip, drip. Sometimes the brass seat itself gets pitted and even a new washer won't seal.

Signs it's a washer: the drip happens when the tap is fully closed; turning the handle a bit tighter briefly stops it; the tap has separate hot and cold handles that you rotate several times to open.

DIY-able? Yes, if you're comfortable. Turn off the water at the isolator or stopcock, undo the tap head, take out the washer, take it to a plumbing merchant to match it, refit. Cost of parts: 20p to £2. Time: 20 minutes if nothing seizes.

Modern mixer taps (single lever, or quarter-turn handles)

These use ceramic disc cartridges instead of washers. Two polished ceramic discs slide against each other — turn the lever and they line up, water flows; turn it off and they misalign, water stops. When they wear or get grit trapped between them, they don't seat properly and the tap drips.

Signs it's a cartridge: single lever tap that drips even when firmly off; quarter-turn tap that used to click shut and now doesn't; the drip started suddenly rather than gradually.

DIY-able? Sometimes, but cartridges are tap-specific. You need to identify the brand and model, order the right cartridge (£15-£40 usually), and know how to get the tap apart without snapping the spout. If it's a cheap tap, replacing the whole tap is often cheaper than a genuine cartridge.

The less common causes

• Damaged valve seat. The brass seat the washer presses onto gets corroded or pitted. New washer, still drips. Needs a re-seating tool or a new tap.
• O-ring failure on the spout. Not a drip from the nozzle, but water seeping round the base of the tap when it's on. Cheap fix — new O-rings.
• Pressure spikes. If your mains pressure is very high, taps drip briefly after being closed. A pressure-reducing valve on the mains fixes it.
• Cracked cartridge housing. Rare, but on cheap taps the plastic body inside cracks. Whole tap needs replacing.

When to DIY it and when to call someone

Honest answer: if it's a traditional tap with two handles, and you've got 20 minutes and a screwdriver, have a go. Turn the water off first (see our shut-off guide if you're not sure how), take the tap head off carefully, match the washer, refit. If it works, great — you've saved yourself a call-out.

Call a plumber if:

• It's a modern mixer or quarter-turn tap. Getting cartridges out of stiff modern taps without damaging the finish is fiddly, and the wrong part means a second trip.
• The tap is stuck solid. Old chrome heads can seize onto the body — force it and you'll snap the spindle.
• The drip is on a bath tap you can't easily access.
• There's no isolation valve on the pipes under the sink or bath, so you'd need to shut the whole house down.
• You've done the washer and it's still dripping — likely a re-seat or new tap job.
• The tap is over 20 years old and the chrome is flaking. You'll probably want it replaced anyway.

What it costs when we do it

Rough guide only, parts extra. A washer swap on an accessible traditional tap is a quick visit. A cartridge replacement on a modern mixer takes a bit longer because we need to identify the exact model. A full tap replacement is longer again because we usually have to work in a tight cupboard with old, tired connections. If the isolation valves under the sink don't work (common on older installs) we'll need to shut the mains off — add ten minutes.

See our tap repair and replacement page for current guide prices and what's included.

A word on "emergency" dripping taps

A dripping tap is annoying but it isn't an emergency. If someone quotes you an emergency price for a slow drip, walk away. What matters is getting it fixed properly first time, with the right part, so you're not looking at the same drip in six months. Book it in for a working day, get it done cleanly.

One thing worth doing today

If your tap is dripping and you don't know where your stopcock is, find it now. Not because the drip is dangerous, but because next time it's a burst pipe at 11pm on a Sunday, you'll want to already know. Our two-minute stopcock guide covers it.

Got a dripping tap you'd rather just get sorted? Give us a ring — we cover Hull and the surrounding villages, water-side only, no callout surcharges pretending to be emergency rates.